HENNA BROWS • Aug 10, 2024

Patch test: don't forget when using Brow Henna!

patch test henna brows brow mrs.highbrow

What is every browstylist's worst nightmare? Right! That your client develops an allergy after a henna brow treatment. You don't want that on your conscience. Fortunately, you can prevent this very easily: perform a patch test. Always. With every new client.

Text: Lisa Ploeger

What exactly is in Brow Henna?

People often think that eyebrow henna is completely pure. Unfortunately, not true; pure henna would mean it has to soak in for hours, resulting in a reddish-brown imprint. Think of the henna that hands are often decorated with in Eastern countries.


Therefore, pigments are added to brow henna to give the powder the beautiful cool brown color and ensure that it stays on the skin for a long time.


One of the added ingredients is p-phenylenediamine (ppd). Although it has very little (0.8 to 1.6%) in it, it can still cause annoying skin complaints. That is why you should always perform a patch test on a client who wants henna brows for the first time.


For the patch test, preferably use one of the darker shades, such as Ash Brown or Raven (because they contain the highest percentage of ppd). Even if you actually plan to dye the brows with a lighter shade.

What is a patch test?

A patch test is a method for discovering whether or not a beauty product or ingredient provokes allergies on the skin.


In a patch test, you apply a small amount of brow henna to your client's skin. You usually do this behind the ear or on the inside of the arm. These patches are similar to the face and so can reflect well what the reaction to henna will be on their brows.

Does this really have to be done?

"But then does every client have to come all the way to the salon first for a patch test?" Yes, actually yes. Although we also understand that this is far from always possible.


PRO TIP: Is it not possible for a client to stop by in advance for a patch test? Just tweeze the brows, or use a regular dye, such as Hybrid Brow Dye. You can take the patch test right away during the treatment, so your client can be sure she can handle henna next time.

Patch test: how to proceed

  • Prepare a dark color of brow henna.
  • Apply a dot to the inside of the elbow or behind the ear.
  • Leave on for 15 to 20 minutes.
  • Remove the brow henna with a cotton pad with water.

And then?

  • If a reaction occurs during the patch test, rinse immediately and wash the area with soap and water. This client clearly cannot tolerate brow henna.

  • Does no reaction such as redness, burning or itching occur within 48 hours of the patch test? Then the henna is safe to use.

NOTE: A patch test is no guarantee against future allergies. Sometimes a person may still become allergic to a certain substance.

Mrs.Highbrow brow henna patch test

So.

Eyebrow henna is NOT pure henna.

Perform a patch test on every new client.

A patch test is no guarantee against future allergies.