Brow Stylists' Most Common Mistakes & How To Fix Them
Beautiful eyebrows add balance and expression to a face. But if they are too thin, too dark or too exaggerated, they can do more harm than good. Make sure you avoid the following mistakes so your client's eyebrows always look perfect.
By Desi van Dijk
Mistake 1: Forgetting Ombre Effect With Henna Brows
How do you create an ombre effect? Apply the Brow Henna as usual. Remove the onset after 5 to 7 minutes with a damp cotton swab. Then leave the rest of the henna on for another 10 to 15 minutes. By the way, an ombre effect is not only beautiful with Henna Brows, but also in the case of permanent makeup or if you fill in your eyebrows with makeup.
Mistake 2. Laminating The Entire Eyebrow Upwards
Laminating the entire eyebrow upward at brow lamination is what we see come by regularly. At first, it sounds logical because that is often the result you want to achieve. But it is nicer if the hairs in the last part follow the direction of growth. In this way you create a more natural effect and the front part of the brow stands out.
Mistake 3: Starting The Arch In The Wrong Place
A distinct arch in the eyebrow creates a powerful look, but it's important that it's in the right place.If you start the arch too close to the center of the face, you can create an angry look. Also, the eyebrows will then appear very short.
So make sure the kink is in the right place. Often the natural shape of the eyebrow already indicates the arch well. But keep in mind that the first part of the eyebrows should cover 70%, the tail is 30% of the whole eyebrow.
How do you determine exactly where the arch should be? Read the tips in this blog post.
Mistake 4: Over-Plucking On The Bottom
Another thing you absolutely don't want is to remove too much hair on the underside. Because this will not only make the eyebrow very thin, but also kind of arch. In addition, with over-plucking there is a chance that the hairs will not grow back at all after a while. And that, of course, is not desirable, because different trends alternate in eyebrow land as well.
Mistake 5: Combining Henna Brows & Brow Lamination
Henna Brows and Brow Lamination are two very popular treatments. Not surprisingly, we are often asked if you can combine these treatments for a perfect brow. After all, you want to do everything possible to achieve the ultimate result. However, we are not a fan of this. This is because with both treatments, you are applying a chemical process, with the risk of over-treating the eyebrows. This can have a negative effect on the hairs, as well as irritate the skin.
But it's no problem. Because Henna Brows either Brow Lamination is actually much prettier. After all, with Henna Brows you want the brows to be as sleek as possible. If you were to apply Brow Lamination as well, it would be way too intense.
With Brow Lamination, you want to emphasize the hairs. If you also color the skin - the purpose of henna brows - then you won't see the hairs as well and the effect of Brow Lamination will be lost. In short, opt for either treatment. And if you want to dye the brows during Brow Lamination, we recommend choosing a Regular Dye.
Mistake 6: Looking At Hair Color Too Much
Although we often hear that people think the brows should be the same color as the head hair, this is a myth. So don't stare blindly at the client's hair color when determining the right shade for the brow. For example, someone with red hair does not necessarily need red brows.
A warm brown color often looks good on red heads. Think of the color Hazelnut from Dyōtics or the color Chestnut from Bronsun. Often the hair color of the client gives a good indication, but it is not necessary to commit to this. On someone with blond hair and a tanned skin, striking, dark brows can look beautiful.
Mistake 7: The Highest Part Of The Onset Points Inwards
Be careful not to remove too many hairs at the roots. This will make the eyebrow very short and the space between them too big. It is also important not to remove too many hairs at the base of the brow to make the top of the brow wider. This makes the brows look inward and often gives an angry or sullen look.
To determine the starting point of the brow, use Brow Mapping Thread. With this, you draw a straight line from the center of the nostril upward. And voila, you know exactly where the brow starts. In this blog post you can read back on how exactly to do that.
Note: this is obviously a tool you can use, but always keep a close eye on the shape of the face and eyebrow.