It's the latest trend in eyebrows: Airbrush Brows. And because it's so new, we get a lot of questions about it. How many layers of dye do you apply? In what ration do you mix the dye? And how do you get that flawless finish? 9 Pro tips for the most beautiful Airbrush Brows.
1. The Right Technique
Airbrush Brows is all about the right technique. 3 spray tips.
- Airbrushing brows is done in long horizontal strokes without stopping.
- Slowly move the gun from the tail to the roots, and back again. That way you create light and even layers for a perfect result.
- You hold the trigger back constantly, instead of spraying as if you were wielding a real gun. That way you avoid "dotting" and create smooth layers and a beautiful finish.
2. The Big Clean
For every brow treatment, having a flawless canvas is incredibly important. This applies especially to Airbrush Brows, and here's why:
- Thoroughly cleaning the brows removes dirt and grease as well as dead skin cells. This gives you a much smoother and flawless result.
- Clean skin also allows for better adhesion of the dye. This allows the paint to penetrate the pores well, and so the client can enjoy her Airbrush Brows longer.
Clean the brows with Skin Prep Lotion, preferably followed by a cotton ball with Treatment Enhancer. Treatment Enhancer ensures that even the last traces of cleanser are removed.
Does a client wear a lot of makeup? If so, always start with a cotton ball with makeup remover.
3. But first: Brow Mapping
If needed, apply an additional layer of Brow Contour Paste over the lines created with the Mapping Thread. This serves as an extra barrier between the brow and the skin. Then, place the Airbrush Brows stencils over this layer.
Instead of blurring the roots early, with Airbrush Brows we go for a step-by-step build-up.
4. Airbrush Brows With Ombre Effect
Airbrush Brows, like Henna and Hybrid Brows, focuses on achieving that beautiful ombre effect. However, the approach differs from the "regular" techniques. Instead of fading the onset early on, with Airbrush Brows, we opt for a step-by-step build-up. During the first two layers, we avoid applying any dye to the front of the brows. It is only in the third and final layer that we introduce the dye to the first part.
In the case of Airbrush Brows, all the dye is removed at once. As a result, the dye at the front of the brows is left on for a shorter period of time, specifically 5 minutes. This technique creates a more subtle and lighter appearance at the front of the brows. Say hello to Airbrush Ombre Brows!
5. Anti-Mist Shield
The airbrush creates a mist of dye. And if you don't cover the eyelids and forehead enough, your client will get airbrushed eyelids and a stained forehead in addition to Airbrush Brows. Especially in the beginning, when you are not so experienced in Airbrush Brows, it is wise to cover the skin. For example, take a piece of practice skin that is also used for PMU, and cut it into an oval shape. This is flexible so you can easily shape it to the shape of the face.
6. The Right Mix
For Airbrush Brows, you need a liquid dye. Mrs.Highbrow PowerStain is great for airbrushing. But then mix the dye with a liquid oxidant, such as Mrs.Highbrow Airbrush Activator.
Your mixture should have the thickness of milk. Mix the PowerStain and Airbrush Activator in a ratio of 2 drops of PowerStain and 1 drop of Activator. Start with 6 drops of dye and 3 drops of Activator. Gradually notice that the mixture is too thick, add 2 more drops of Airbrush Activator.
By the way, there are also specialists who prefer a thinner mixture for Airbrush Brows, in the ratio of 6 drops of dye and 4 to 5 drops of oxidant. So it is very personal, and we advise: go ahead and find out for yourself what you like to work with.
7. With Appropriate Distance
Keep a distance of about 5 cm between the gun and the skin for optimal results. Are you spraying from too close? Then your dye will smear and you won't get a nice powdery haze. If you hold the gun too high, the spray too much outside the brow shape, resulting in a messy look.
Also important with Airbrush Brows: spray diagonally to the skin, rather than perpendicularly. This way you spray more evenly and avoid irregularities.
The beauty of Airbrush Brows is that you can work in several thin layers. We recommend 3 layers, and each layer you leave for 5 minutes.
8. Multiple, Thin Layers
If you have a client who has a more challenging application or for whom Henna Brows don't work as effectively, or if you have a client who desires very intense brows, you can apply four layers. However, in most cases, three layers are sufficient to achieve the most beautiful Airbrush Brows.
9. Razor-Sharp With Tint Remover
Did some dye accidentally get out of line? Then a remover is really a must! With Mrs.Highbrow Tint Remover, you can effortlessly remove blemishes and irregularities with a cotton swab. You can also use it to tighten the top and bottom of the eyebrow.
Tint Remover is not intended to remove dye from the eyebrows. For that, simply use a damp cotton ball with tap water. If you notice that the Airbrush Brows have turned out a little too dark, go over the brows with a cotton ball with Tint Remover. It won't lighten the hair color, but it will take away dye from the skin, making the whole look less intense.
Mrs.Highbrow Tint Remover is compatible with various eyebrow dye products, such as PowerStain, Hybrid Dye and Brow Henna.