At some point, it's bound to happen that your henna brow treatment may not turn out as you initially hoped or expected. What if the Henna Brows turned out too dark? Or what if after they're done, you suddenly notice that they're actually uneven? We've gathered the best tips & tricks so your client can still walk out the door satisfied and confident even if something goes wrong initially.
- By Desi van Dijk
1. Henna Brows Are Way Too Dark
Occasionally your Henna Brows may turn out just way too dark, and this can have several causes.
- First, you may have left the brow henna on too long. Remember, the best soaking time is between 15 and 20 minutes! An exception to this rule would be very light and porous brows with almost no pigment, as these hairs absorb the henna like a sponge, so they can be quite dark after only 5 minutes.
- It may also be the case that you have chosen a shade that's too dark for your client. This happens even more often when a client is getting Henna Brows for the first time, so it's important not to start with a shade that is too dark. Unfortunately, there is no magic remedy that will immediately fix Henna Brows that have become too dark, but do you know how can you still save the brows if they are too dark?
- Try brightening the brows a bit with Tint Remover. Apply a few drops of Tint Remover on a cotton pad and rub over the brows several times. While you won't get brows that are several shades lighter, lightening them slightly definitely helps.
- Exfoliate the brows. You can either do this at the salon or ask your client to do this immediately upon returning home. Exfoliating the brows will instantly lighten them because you're removing the color from the skin.
- In the extreme case - if your client is really very dissatisfied - lighten the brows with bleach. For example, try using Blonde from Refectocil and this removes the color from the skin, as well as from the hairs. Prepare the bleach paste and apply with a brush to the eyebrows. After 5 minutes, remove it with a damp cotton pad and check the result, and if needed, continue this process until you are happy with the result. But, be really careful, because if you leave the blonde on too long, the eyebrows may turn red and then you are even further from what you want!
Hopefully these tips will help to get rid of eyebrows from their too-dark color faster. In any case, what does not help is to use a lighter henna color to re-dye the brows!
Dyotics Brow Henna comes in 6 shades, from Honey to Raven.
Price: €24.95 for 6 grams.
2. Henna Brows Are Way Too Light
It can also happen that the henna brows turn out much lighter than you would expect or want.
- In this case, you probably used too light a color, or you may not have left the henna on long enough, causing the eyebrow and skin to not pick up the color as well as you'd like.
- Another cause could be that the skin was not cleaned properly. Often you will not see this effect directly at your salon, but the client will not be able to enjoy the henna brows for as long. This is why it's so important that you properly clean and degrease the skin and the brows, for example, use the Treatment Enhancer or/or Skin Prep Lotion.
- If the Henna Brows have turned out just way too light, you can reapply the henna. While we normally recommend leaving a few weeks between treatments, if the henna did not take well, it may be reapplied immediately. Tip: be sure to check on a small area every now and then to see if the henna is now picking up properly.
- For next time: apply the henna with Treatment Enhancer instead of water, and you'll see that the color will be more intense as a result.
Price Treatment Enhancer: €9,95.
3. Henna Brows Are Uneven
No matter how precisely you set the Mapping Thread lines or how carefully you applied the Brow Contour Paste, you may find that the end result looks slightly uneven. We're always happy to remind you that brows are not twins, they are sisters! But what about when you're still convinced that the arch or tail of the brow is not quite right?
- You can simply reapply henna on the bit you want to correct. Often you can do this freehand, but you can also use a marker pen or the Brow Contour Paste again if you feel more comfortable that way. Tip: always keep the henna paste until you and your client are really satisfied with the result, don't discard it after the treatment! This way, if you still want to correct or apply something, you can just use the henna you used before.
4. Henna Brows Have a Greenish Glow
Just after the treatment is done, the brows may appear to have a greenish glow. Don't stress - this isn't a failure! In fact, the original Indian henna powder is naturally green. However, you can check in during a few steps:
- Make sure the henna paste stands long enough after it is mixed before you apply it. This allows the henna to develop into a beautiful, rich brown color.
- Be sure that you leave the henna on the brows long enough, at least 15-20 minutes (slightly shorter for lighter brows). This will ensure that the henna develops into a nice brown color on both the skin and brows.
- And lastly; always reassure your client if the brows still have a slightly greenish glow. Remind them not to worry, this will be gone as soon as they arrive home!
Prevent Brow Failures
To avoid these failures, it is important that you properly follow the steps for Henna Brows, every time. To refresh your knowledge, we're repeating all the steps again!
#1 Clean the brows
It is important to clean the brows thoroughly before every treatment. Make sure there is no makeup residue left in or around the brows. After removing makeup residue, it is important to additionally clean the brows with Skin Prep Lotion and/or Treatment Enhancer.
#2 Choose the right shade
In agreement with the client, determine the right shade of Dyōtics henna. It's important - especially with a client coming for the first time - not to choose a shade that is too dark. Need some help determining the right shade? You'll learn this in our free online course: Colorology. Next, prepare the henna. You can choose to prepare the henna with Treatment Enhancer, ensuring that your client can enjoy the result even longer.
#3 Shape the Brows
Before a henna treatment, you can shape the brows by waxing or threading them. Both techniques can be used prior to a henna brow treatment. It's whatever you or the client likes! Want to learn more about brow styling? Then take the Online Browstylist Course.
#4 Outline the brows
#5 Apply the henna
Now it's time to apply the henna! Are you already an experienced Henna Brow specialist? Then you can get started confidently. Not as familiar with henna brows yet? Then enroll in our Henna Brows Online Course, in which you will learn all the tricks of the trade. To create an ombré effect, you can remove the roots after about 7 minutes and leave the rest of the henna on for 15-20 minutes.
#6 That's it!
Now you've given your client a beautiful look with Henna Brows. After the treatment, you can check out the henna brows (together with the client) to see if you are happy with the result. Not completely satisfied? Then read back to the beginning of this blog post on how to fix the most common failures.
Henna Brows Online Course
If you are not yet familiar with Henna Brows or if you want to learn the tricks of the trade, then our Henna Brows Online Course is perfect for you. In this online course you will learn all the ins & outs at your own pace, after which you can start working with confidence.
The online course for Henna Brows costs €199 and includes:
Dyotics Brow Henna Starter Kit worth €179
- Handwritten certificate
- Another 6 months of online coaching